by Chantal Chi

China is a competitive world. After the Olympics in Beijing, the sommeliers have now also tested their mettle in a competition held in Shanghai on the 22nd of September. According to co-organizer ASC, the largest importer in China, over 100 candidates enrolled. Qualification was not bound by nationality and 10% on the candidates were non-Chinese, but working in China, most of them in the F&B business. Surprisingly, the majority of candidates were from southern China, not from such ‘hot’ cities as Beijing or Shanghai. That can perhaps be explained by the fact that Penfolds, another of the organizers, is a strong brand there.

The three finalists were all Chinese, which might not seem entirely logical as the industry is still dominated by non-Chinese. However, with a lot of questions related to knowledge of China, none of them made the cut. The three finalists then competed for gold at the Wine Residence of ASC in Shanghai. Tests included service in a lunch for judges, decanting and blind tasting. Responses to the questions were allowed in both Chinese and English, with the candidates obliged to use both languages when describing wines.

“I cannot 100% claim for sure that this was the first sommelier competition in China, but I think it is fair to say that this was the first to have any clout among the key individuals driving the fine wine business in China,” declared Marc-Antoine Jolly of ASC, the person in charge of the contest.

The winner was Yang Lu, born in China, but now working in Toronto as a junior sommelier. Winning this competition will lead him to 2009 Grange Release event in Australia. However, it will not entitle him to compete at the sommelier world championship. As this profession is still very young in China, there are no ‘real’ sommeliers of international standard. Most of them are still acquiring their skills while working as F&B or restaurant managers, such as the other two finalists, one from the restaurant Jean-Georges in Shanghai and the other from the Hilton in Sanya. “There are a growing numbers of young Chinese interested in the profession,” highlighted Mr. Jolly. “For next year, the candidates will be only Chinese”. The reason is simple - Chinese sommeliers are the key to the future of the market.

The judges were: Kym Schroeter, Penfolds winemaker; Andy Tan, fine wines consultant, ASC; Marcus Ford, restaurant manager at M on the Bund; Chantal Chi, freelance writer and author of the book “l’Esprit de ma cave à vin”.